Bus Tours

For the first-timer, the quickest and most economical way to bring the big city into focus is to take a bus tour. One of the most popular is the Original London Sightseeing Tour, which passes by all the major sights in just about 1 1/2 hours. The tour -- which uses a traditional double-decker bus with live commentary by a guide -- costs £18 ($34) for adults, £12 ($23) for children under 16, free for those under 5. The tour allows you to hop on or off the bus at any point in the tour at no extra charge.

Departures are from convenient points within the city; you can choose your departure point when you buy your ticket. Tickets can be purchased on the bus or at a discount from any London Transport or London Tourist Board Information Centre. Most hotel concierges also sell tickets. For information or phone purchases, call tel. 020/8877-1722. It's also possible to book online on their website.

Big Bus Company Ltd., Waterside Way, London SW17 (tel. 020/7233-9533), operates a 2-hour tour in summer, departing frequently between 8:30am and 4:30pm daily from Marble Arch by Speakers Corner, Green Park by the Ritz Hotel, and Victoria Station (Buckingham Palace Rd. by the Royal Westminster Hotel). Tours cover the highlights -- 18 in all -- ranging from the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey to the Tower of London and Buckingham Palace (exterior looks only), accompanied by live commentary. The cost is £20 ($38) for adults, £10 ($19) for children. A 1-hour tour follows the same route but covers only 13 sights. Tickets are valid all day; you can hop on and off the bus as you wish.

Walking Tours

The Original London Walks, 87 Messina Ave., P.O. Box 1708, London NW6 4LW (tel. 020/7624-3978), the oldest established walking-tour company in London, is run by an Anglo-American journalist/actor couple, David and Mary Tucker. Their hallmarks are variety, reliability, reasonably sized groups, and -- above all -- superb guides. The renowned crime historian Donald Rumbelow, the leading authority on Jack the Ripper and author of the classic guidebook London Walks, is a regular guide, as are several prominent actors (including classical actor Edward Petherbridge). Walks are regularly scheduled daily and cost £6 ($11) for adults, £5 ($9.50) for students and seniors; children under 15 go free. Call for a schedule; no reservations needed.