Football -- You might get swept up by the zeal that some residents have for their local soccer clubs: Hearts and Hibs. Heart of Midlothian Football Club (just Hearts or occasionally Jambos) home field is Tynecastle stadium on Gorgie Road (tel. 0131/200-7201), near Haymarket railway station. Hibernian FC (simply Hibs or sometimes Hibbies) play at Easter Road stadium, towards Leith (tel. 0131/661-2159). These cross-town rivals, when not battling each other in the Edinburgh "derby," take on other teams in the top Scottish soccer league. The season usually runs from August through May, and traditional playing time is Saturday afternoon at 3pm, although mid-week evenings and Sunday matches (which begin a bit after noon) are now common. Tickets range from £10 to £50 ($19-$93).

Horse Racing -- Place your bets at the Musselburgh Racecourse, Musselburgh Park (tel. 0131/665-2083), about 6.5km (4 miles) east of Edinburgh. Admission is £15 to £20 ($28-$37).

Rugby -- The home of Scotland's National Rugby Team is Murrayfield Stadium (tel. 0131/346-5000), about 3km (2 miles) west of Edinburgh's city center (walking distance from Haymarket station). The sport is usually played from autumn to spring, usually on Saturdays. Some of the most passionate matches are those among teams in the annual Six Nations competition comprising Scotland, Wales, England, Ireland, Italy, and France. Ticket prices range from around £25 to £40 ($46-$74).