Visitor Information

Technically, there are tourist information desks at both airports, and these should be open for all flight arrivals. Don't count on it, however, and don't expect a lot of help, other than being handed a brochure or booklet and given some bland details of available hotels. That said, a good source of visitor information is the comprehensive City Info booklet, published monthly and available at tourist information offices as well as upmarket hotels and even certain pubs and restaurants. For the best listings of the city's current events and what's hip and happening, look no further than the twice-monthly magazine Time Out, available at all newsstands. The main Government of India Tourist Office (123 Maharishi Karve Rd., Churchgate; tel. 022/2207-4333 or -4334; Mon-Fri 8:30am-6pm, Sat 8:30am-2pm) is where to head for general tourist-related information, but if you're staying at one of the city's better hotels, your concierge will be a good source of information on sightseeing, performances, events, and activities.

Arriving

By Plane -- Mumbai's sprawling Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (tel. 022/2682-9000 or -9112) has been recently renovated, but don't expect world-class facilities. The airport is located in Sahar, 30km (19 miles) north of the center (which is why it's often called Sahar Airport). Its flights usually arrive and depart between midnight and dawn, which can make finding your feet difficult. A Government of India Tourist Office (tel. 022/2682-9248) at the airport should be open 24 hours but -- as is the case in most of India's tourist offices -- it's certainly not the best place to obtain advice; you'll find the contents of this book far more useful.

Because you will no doubt have to wait in line for foreign exchange (there is only one small booth), it is advisable that you arrange an airport transfer to meet you -- important, too, because you will be accosted by a loud, expectant mass of touts and taxi drivers the minute you exit the terminal doors, all of whom need to be treated with a degree of caution. If you are expecting a pickup, don't get sidetracked or deterred from boarding the correct hotel shuttle -- ignore strangers offering help.

Should you need to hire a taxi, make use of the reliable prepaid taxi service (tel. 022/2682-9922); a trip to a city-center hotel should cost from Rs 340 to Rs 400 ($8-$10/£4-£5) and an additional Rs 10 (25¢/10[p]) per bag. (Expect to pay well over double these rates for a hotel airport transfer, but you'll also get a much better vehicle to travel in.) Because many international flights arrive late at night, traffic delays are usually not a problem, and you should be at your hotel within an hour even if you're staying downtown.

Note: Auto-rickshaws are banned from the city's center, so don't rely on these unless your hotel is located in the immediate vicinity of the airport.

Domestic Airport -- If you are flying direct from Mumbai's international airport on to the next destination, note that you will have to transfer (there is a free bus; make sure you get on it) to the Santa Cruz Domestic Airport (tel. 022/2615-6500; 4km/2 1/2 miles from the international airport and 26km/16 miles north of the city). (Note that the domestic airport has also, bizarrely, been renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport, so it's best to refer to the airports by their location for example, Sahar or Santa Cruz airport). You will have to spend the rest of the night in a very uncomfortable airport seat. If you have arrived at Santa Cruz and plan to spend some time in Mumbai, you can catch a metered taxi from the airport, which should set you back about Rs 300 ($7/£4) for a trip to a hotel in the city center. Since domestic flights are likely to arrive during the day, be prepared for a long, congested, frustrating journey into Mumbai. There's also a tourist office at the domestic airport (tel. 022/2615-6920; daily 7am-11pm).

By Train -- If you are traveling from Central, South, or East India, you will no doubt arrive at "VT," Victoria Station (otherwise known as Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus or CST). A taxi ride farther downtown, to Colaba, should take about 10 to 15 minutes. From the north, you'll arrive at Mumbai Central Station; from here you will have to brave the traffic and take a taxi to your destination.

When to Go

Mumbai's humidity -- even in the small hours of the morning -- is felt instantly, and the sun shines year-round, except in the monsoon months. You always seem drenched in warm sweat, and the heat can be terribly cruel, making sightseeing far less agreeable than a tour of the city's wonderful restaurants and drinking holes. Winter (Nov-Feb) is still hot, although not so entirely unpleasant; the sultry sea air sets the tone for an adventure in exotic dining and an intoxicating jaunt through lively, Victorian-era streets that are constantly crammed with people. The only real relief from the heat comes for brief periods in December and January, and midyear, when the annual monsoon drenches the city with heavy, nonstop tropical rains.

City Layout

Mumbai city lies on the western coast of India, on a thin peninsula that extends southward almost parallel to the mainland. At the southern end of this peninsula are Colaba and the adjoining Fort area, on the east of which lies Mumbai's deep, natural harbor and India's busiest port. West of Fort, hugging the Arabian Sea, is the popular promenade Marine Drive, which begins at the business district of Nariman Point and terminates at Chowpatty Beach and Malabar Hill. These are the focal nodes for tourists who, unlike the locals, often refer to the area as downtown. In fact, locals say they are going "into town," by which they mean they are going toward South Mumbai, the area stretching south from Mahim Creek to Colaba. South Mumbai is where most tourists choose to base themselves (though there are those who prefer to stay in the Bandra/Juhu area). It is the historic heart of the city, with attractions like the Gateway of India and the Prince of Wales Museum, and the widest selection of restaurants and accommodations. The South Mumbai neighborhoods are described in detail below, but to see where most Mumbaikars (or Bombayites) live, including the jet-set stars, it may be worthwhile to take a trip into one of the suburbs. Of these, the most interesting (and a good alternative to South Mumbai if you're staying just 1 night -- it's a great deal closer to the airport) are Bandra and Juhu. Extending northward of Churchgate is the Western Railway local train line, and moving north of Victoria Terminus (or CST) is the Central Railway network. Together, these two suburban train systems transport over 6 million commuters each day.

Finding (and Losing) Your Way . . . -- It soon becomes apparent that Mumbai is not a planned city but has mushroomed according to the needs, wisdom, and follies of its citizens and administrators. Street names in particular can be confusing to first-time visitors; street signs, when they exist, are often ignored -- many people continue to use the old colonial names instead. Colaba Causeway, for example, is the colloquial name for Shahid Bhagat Singh Road; Breach Candy for Bhulabhai Desai Road; and Peddar Road for Deshmukh Marg. In times of confusion, refer to a landmark (or hotel); for example, if you're trying to find Veer Nariman Road and no one understands you, ask for Churchgate Station instead.