If you'd rather not drive in Yellowstone's heavy summer traffic, guided tours of the park are available locally through Grub Steak Expeditions, P.O. Box 1013, Cody, WY 82414 (tel. 800/527-6316 or 307/527-6316), and Powder River Tours (tel. 800/442-3682, ext. 114, or 307/527-3677). Bob Richard, Grub Steak's proprietor (and one of the most knowledgeable guides you'll find), can spin a tale with the best of them. His roots in the area run deep; he's a third-generation Cody resident and former Yellowstone ranger.

Cody has fewer organized recreation options than Jackson does, but there is no shortage of places to go outdoors. Buffalo Bill State Park, located along the canyon and reservoir 6 miles west of Cody, is a hot spot for outdoors buffs, with opportunities for hiking, fishing, and a variety of watersports, particularly windsurfing. The park also has facilities for camping and picnicking.