River Cruises -- The best way to cruise the river, in my view, is aboard the fast CityCat ferries. Board at Riverside and head downstream under the Story Bridge to New Farm Park, past Newstead House to the restaurant row at Brett's Wharf; or cruise upriver past the city and South Bank to the University of Queensland's lovely campus. (Take a look at its impressive Great Court while you're there.) This trip in either direction will set you back a whole A$2.60 (US$2.10/UK£1.05). Or you can stay on for the full trip, which takes about 2 hours.

For those who'd like commentary and a meal as they cruise, the Kookaburra River Queen paddle-wheelers (tel. 07/3221 1300) are a good option. You can choose from a lunch or dinner cruise, and from a three-course menu or a seafood platter. Lunch cruises cost A$48 (US$38/UK£19) and A$70 (US$56/UK£28) for seafood; dinner cruises are A$65 (US$52/UK£26) and A$85 (US$68/UK£34). Prices are A$10 (US$8/UK£4) higher on Friday and Saturday nights and public holidays. The boat departs from the Eagle Street Pier (parking is available under the City Rowers tavern on Eagle St.). Devonshire tea and wine-and-cheese options are also available for A$30 (US$24/UK£12) per person.

Bus Tours -- For a good introduction to Brisbane, look no further than a City Sights bus tour run by Brisbane City Council (tel. 13 12 30 in Australia). City Sights buses stop at 19 points of interest in a continuous loop around the city center, Spring Hill, Milton, South Bank, and Fortitude Valley, including Chinatown. They take in various historic buildings and places of interest. The driver of the blue-and-yellow bus narrates, and you can hop on and off at any stop you like. The tour is a good value -- your ticket also gives unlimited access to buses, ferries, and CityCats for the day, as well as discounts to some attractions. The bus departs every 45 minutes from 9am to 3:45pm daily except Good Friday, April 25 (Anzac Day), and December 25. The whole trip, without stopping, takes 90 minutes. Tickets cost A$22 (US$18/UK£8.80) for adults, A$16 (US$13/UK£6.40) for children 5 to 14. Buy your ticket on board. You can join anywhere along the route, but the most central stop is City Hall, stop 2, on Adelaide Street at Albert Street.

Walking Tours -- The Brisbane City Council has a wonderful program called Gonewalking (tel. 07/3403 8888). About 80 free guided walks are run each week from somewhere in the city or suburbs, exploring all kinds of territory, from bushland to heritage buildings to riverscapes to cemeteries. The walks are aimed at locals, not tourists, so you get to explore Brisbane side by side with the townsfolk. Every walk has a flexible distance option and usually lasts about an hour. Most are easy, but some are more demanding. Most start and finish near public transport and end near a food outlet.

Prepare for shivers up your spine if you take one of Jack Sim's Ghost Tours (tel. 07/3344 7265), which relive Brisbane's gruesome past. You can take a Saturday night Haunted Brisbane tour or Bloody Brisbane crime and murder tour for A$45 (US$36/UK£18) adults or A$23 (US$18/UK£9.20) children aged 12 to 17 or combine them for A$75 (US$60/UK£30). Other regular tours take in the historic Toowong and South Brisbane cemeteries. The cost is A$35 (US$28/UK£14) adults or A$18 (US$14/UK£7) children. Reservations are essential; no children under 12.

Free guided walks of the City Botanic Gardens at Alice Street leave from the rotunda at the Albert Street entrance Monday through Saturday at 11am and 1pm (except public holidays). They take about 1 hour. Bookings are not necessary.