For an overview of Sedona, take a tour on the Sedona Trolley (tel. 928/282-4211), which leaves several times daily on two separate tours. One tour visits the Tlaquepaque shopping plaza, the Chapel of the Holy Cross, and several art galleries, while the other goes out through west Sedona to Boynton Canyon and Enchantment Resort. Tours are $10 for adults ($19 for both tours) and $5 for children 12 and under ($9 for both tours).

The red-rock country surrounding Sedona is the city's greatest natural attraction, and there's no better way to explore it than by four-wheel-drive vehicle. Although you may end up feeling like every other tourist in town, you quite simply should not leave Sedona without going on a jeep tour. These tours will get you out onto rugged roads and 4X4 trails with spectacular views. The unchallenged leader in Sedona jeep tours is Pink Jeep Tours, 204 N. Hwy. 89A (tel. 800/873-3662 or 928/282-5000), which has been heading deep into the Coconino National Forest since 1958. It offers tours ranging in length from 1 1/2 to 4 hours, however, the 2-hour "Broken Arrow" tour ($72 adults, $54 children 12 and under) is the most adventurous and is the tour I recommend. Pink Jeep Tours also offers tours to Grand Canyon National Park.

If a jeep just isn't manly enough for you, how about a Hummer? Better yet, how about a Hummer that runs on enviro-friendly bio-diesel? Hummer Affair, 273 N. Hwy. 89A, Suite C (tel. 928/282-6656), will take you out in the red rocks in the ultimate off-road vehicle. One-hour tours run $40 to $69 ($29-$59 for children), but the 2-hour "Jeep Eater Tour" for $89 ($79 for children) is the most fun.

How about a chance to play cowboy? A Day in the West, 252 N. Hwy. 89A (tel. 800/973-3663 or 928/282-4320), has its own private ranch for some of its jeep tours and horseback rides. There are cowboy cookouts, too. Prices range from $45 to $165.

If you'd like to have a very knowledgeable local tour guide show you around places you're interested in seeing at your own pace, I recommend getting in touch with Steve "Benny" Benedict at Touch the Earth Adventures (tel. 928/203-9132). Benny likes to take clients to spots that even many locals don't know about. Half-day excursions run $125 per person, and full-day outings are $225 per person.

For a tour of the Sedona area from a Native American perspective, contact Way of the Ancients (tel. 866/204-9243), which offers 5-hour tours that cost $69 for adults and $59 for children. There are also excursions to the Hopi mesas ($139 for adults and $129 for children).

Just because it's too dark to see the red rocks doesn't mean there's nothing to see and do in Sedona at night. How about a tour of the heavens? Evening Sky Tours (tel. 866/701-0398 or 928/203-0006) takes advantage of the dark night skies over Sedona to lead people on astronomy tours of the stars and planets. Tours cost $60 for adults and $20 for children.

As spectacular as Sedona is from the ground, it is even more so from the air. Arizona Helicopter Adventures (tel. 800/282-5141 or 928/282-0904) offers short flights to different parts of this colorful region. Prices start at $58 per person for a 12-minute flight. Sky Safari Air Tours (tel. 888/TOO-RIDE or 928/204-5939) offers a variety of flights in small planes. A 15-minute air tour will run you $49 per person, while a 45-minute tour will cost $99. Flights as far afield as the Grand Canyon and Canyon de Chelly can also be arranged.

My favorite Sedona air tours are those offered by Red Rock Biplane Tours (tel. 888/TOO-RIDE or 928/204-5939), which operates modern Waco open-cockpit biplanes. With the wind in your hair, you'll feel as though you've entered the world of Snoopy and the Red Baron. Tours lasting 20 to 60 minutes are offered; a 20-minute tour costs $89 per person with a two-person minimum.

If something a bit slower is more your speed, how about drifting over the sculpted red buttes of Sedona in a hot-air balloon? Northern Light Balloon Expeditions (tel. 800/230-6222 or 928/282-2274) charges $190 per person; Red Rock Balloon Adventures (tel. 800/258-3754) charges $195 per person; while Sky High Balloon Adventures (tel. 800/551-7597), which floats over the Verde Valley and includes a "splash-and-dash" descent to the river, charges $180 per person.