Bisected by the Santa Monica Mountains and fronted by long stretches of beach, Los Angeles is one of the best cities in the world for nature and sports lovers. Where else can you hike in the mountains, in-line skate along the beach, swim in the ocean, and enjoy a gourmet meal, and then take in a pro basketball, soccer, hockey, or baseball game -- all in the same day?

Bicycling

Los Angeles, being mostly flat, is great for biking. If you're into distance pedaling, you can do no better than the flat, paved bicycle trail that follows about 22 miles of state beaches, harbors, LAX, and laid-back beach towns such as Venice, Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach, and Redondo Beach. The first stretch starts at Will Rogers State Beach in Pacific Palisades and runs south through Santa Monica and Venice to Marina del Rey -- about 8 miles. The second stretch -- called the South Bay Bike Trail -- starts at the south end of Marina del Rey and takes you all the way to Torrence Beach. If you want to ride the entire path you'll have to detour around Marina del Rey, which only takes about 15 minutes. The bike path attracts all levels of riders and gets pretty busy on weekends, so ixnay the time trials. Don't worry about packing food and water -- there's plenty of fountains, snack stands, and public restrooms along the trail. For information on this and other city bike routes, log on to the LA Bike Paths website.

The best place to mountain bike in the L.A. region is along the trails of Malibu Creek State Park (tel. 818/880-0367), in the Santa Monica Mountains between Malibu and the San Fernando Valley in Calabasas. Fifteen miles of trails rise to a maximum of 3,000 feet and are appropriate for intermediate to advanced bikers. Pick up a trail map at the park entrance, 4 miles south of U.S. 101 off Las Virgenes Road, just north of Mulholland Highway. Park admission is $5 per car. For more information on mountain bike trails in the L.A. region, log on to the LA Trails website.

Spokes 'N Stuff Bike Rental has four locations, one of which is located 4175 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey (tel. 310/306-3332), which is only open on weekends, and another located at 1715 Ocean Front Walk, behind Loews Hotel, Santa Monica (tel. 310/395-4748), which is open every day. They rent 10-speed cruisers for about $7 per hour and $16 per day; 15-speed mountain bikes rent for about $8 per hour and $20 per day. Another good Santa Monica rental shop is Blazing Saddles Bike Rentals (Santa Monica Pier; tel. 310/393-9778). The rates are about the same as those at Spokes 'N Stuff. Be sure to ask for a free self-guided tour map (it's really handy).

In Hollywood, Hollywood Pro Bicycles (6731 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood; tel. 323/466-5890) rents mountain bikes at $30 for a 24-hour period and $20 for each additional day. Every rental comes with a free tour map, a safety helmet, a bike lock, and a handlebar bag for storage.

In the South Bay, bike rentals -- including tandem bikes -- are available 1 block from The Strand at Hermosa Cyclery, 20 13th St. (tel. 310/374-7816). Cruisers are $7 per hour; tandems are $13 per hour. FYI, The Strand is an excellent car-free path that's tailor-made for a leisurely bike ride.

Fishing

Del Rey Sport Fishing, 13759 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey (tel. 800/822-3625), has three deep-sea boats departing daily on half- and full-day ocean fishing trips. Of course, it depends on what's running when you're out, but bass, barracuda, halibut, and yellowtail are the most common catches on these party boats. Excursions start at $35 for half-day trips; tackle rental is available as well. Phone for reservations.

No permit is required to cast from shore or drop a line from a pier. Local anglers will hate me for giving away their secret spot, but the best saltwater fishing spot in all of L.A. is at the foot of Torrance Boulevard in Redondo Beach.

Hang Gliding

Up and down the California coast, it's not uncommon to see people poised on the crests of hills, hanging from enormous colorful kites. You can, too. Windsports Soaring Center, 12623 Gridley St., Sylmar (tel. 818/367-2430), offers instruction and rentals for both novices and experts. A 1-day lesson in a solo hang glider on a bunny hill costs $120. If it's more of a thrill you're looking for, choose the 3,000-foot-high tandem flight for $199, where you fly with an instructor. Beginner lessons are waterside at Dockweiler State Beach Training Flight Park (near LAX), while tandem flights take off from a San Fernando Valley hilltop. Phone for reservations.

Hiking

The Santa Monica Mountains, a small range that runs only 50 miles from Griffith Park to Point Mugu, on the coast north of Malibu, makes Los Angeles a great place for hiking. The mountains, which peak at 3,111 feet, are part of the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area, a contiguous conglomeration of 350 public parks and 65,000 acres. Many animals live in this area, including deer, coyote, rabbit, skunk, rattlesnake, fox, hawk, and quail. The hills are also home to almost 1,000 drought-resistant plant species, including live oak and coastal sage.

Hiking is best after spring rains, when the hills are green, flowers are in bloom, and the air is clear. Summers can be very hot; hikers should always carry fresh water. Beware of poison oak, a hearty shrub that's common on the West Coast. Usually found among oak trees, poison oak has leaves in groups of three, with waxy surfaces and prominent veins. If you come into contact with this itch-producing plant, you'll end up with a California souvenir that you'll soon regret.

Santa Ynez Canyon, in Pacific Palisades, is a long and difficult climb that rises steadily for about 3 miles. At the top, hikers are rewarded with fantastic views over the Pacific. At the top is Trippet Ranch, a public facility providing water, restrooms, and picnic tables. From Santa Monica, take Pacific Coast Highway (Calif. 1) north. Turn right onto Sunset Boulevard and then left onto Palisades Drive. Then continue for 2 1/2 miles, turn left onto Verenda de la Montura, and park at the cul-de-sac at the end of the street, where you can find the trail head.

Temescal Canyon, in Pacific Palisades, is far easier than the Santa Ynez trail and far more popular, especially among locals. This is one of the quickest routes into the wilderness. Hikes here are anywhere from 1 to 5 miles. From Santa Monica, take Pacific Coast Highway (Calif. 1) north; turn right onto Temescal Canyon Road, and follow it to the end. Sign in with the gatekeeper, who can also answer your questions.

Will Rogers State Historic Park, Pacific Palisades, is also a terrific place for hiking. An intermediate-level hike from the park's entrance ends at Inspiration Point, a plateau from which you can see a good portion of L.A.'s Westside.

For more information on hiking in the L.A. region, log on to the LA Trails website.

Horseback Riding

Griffith Park Horse Rental, 480 Riverside Dr. (in the Los Angeles Equestrian Center), Burbank (tel. 818/840-8401), rents horses by the hour for guided rides through Griffith Park's hills; no experience is necessary. Horse rental costs $25 for 1 hour, cash only. The stables are open daily from 8am to 5pm ('til 7pm in the summer), and you must be at least 6 years old to ride. If you have a rider younger than 6, you can either opt for the pony rides in Griffith Park, or arrange for a private 1-hour lesson by calling tel. 818/569-3666.

Another popular horseback-riding outfit is Sunset Ranch, located at 3400 Beachwood Dr. off of Franklin Avenue, just under the HOLLYWOOD sign. Horse rentals are offered daily from 9am to 5pm for all levels of riders. The ranch is on the edge of Griffith Park with access to 52 miles of trails. Also available are private night rides (very romantic), dinner rides, and riding lessons. Rates are $25 for a 1-hour ride, $40 for 2 hours, not including tip. No reservations are required. For more information, call tel. 323/469-5450 or log on to the Sunset Ranch Hollywood website.

Closer to the ocean in Topanga Canyon is Los Angeles Horseback Riding (2623 Old Topanga Canyon Rd., Topanga; tel. 818/591-2032), a small, friendly outfit that offers guided Western-style trail rides for beginners to advanced riders. It's situated at the top of a 1,800-foot ridgeline -- about a 25-minute drive from Santa Monica -- with panoramic views of the ocean and San Fernando Valley (best seen on one of the sunset or full-moon rides). What I like about this outfit is that, if the guide feels that the group is experienced enough, she'll pick up the pace to a canter. Although same-day reservations are sometimes possible, try to book at least 3 days in advance. Kids 6 and older are welcome, and kids under 16 must wear helmets (bring a bike helmet, if possible). Prices start at about $60 for a guided 70-minute ride, plus tip; 2-hour canyon rides and full-moon trips are available as well.

Sunset Margarita Horse Rides -- This is so cool. Every Friday night, the Sunset Ranch Hollywood Stables company hosts the Friday Night Dinner Ride. They saddle you up on a big ol' horse, and then y'all take a scenic 1 1/2-hour ride through Griffith Park -- with the city lights shining far below -- to the Viva Fresh Mexican restaurant in Burbank. After dinner and a few tasty margaritas, you mount up and ride back to the ranch, arriving at about 11pm. Anyone under 250 pounds can go, and no reservations are required -- it's strictly first-come, first-served. The ride costs $60, not including dinner, drinks, and tipping the guide. Sign up begins at 4:30pm and the ride leaves at 5:30pm. Consider yourself warned, however: Many a sore derriere has wished it hadn't been subjected to 180 minutes in the saddle. The ranch is located at the very end of Beachwood Drive off Franklin Avenue, just under the HOLLYWOOD sign. For more information, call tel. 323/469-5450 or log on to the Sunset Ranch Hollywood website.

Sailing

Marina del Rey, the largest man-made marina in the world, is the launching point for L.A.'s sailboat charters such as Free Spirit Sailing Adventures, which offers trips ranging from a 2-hour harbor tour ($96 per person) to full-day outings along the coast and even 4-day voyages to the Channel Islands. Your host is Captain Larry, and the boat is the Carmina Mare, a 46-foot cutter-rigged motorsailor. You can either bring your own food and drinks or have Captain Larry prepare lunch and dinner for you. Bring your own rods and tackle and you can even go fishing. For more information call Captain Larry's cellphone number, tel. 424/217-9295, or log on to the website.

Sea Kayaking

Sea kayaking is all the rage in Southern California, a simple and serene way to explore the southern coastline. Southwind Kayak Center (17855 Skypark Circle, Irvine; tel. 800/768-8494 or 949/261-0200) rents sit-on-top sea kayaks for use in the bay or open ocean at their Newport Beach and Dana Point rental bases. Rates are $50 per day; instructional classes are available on weekends only. The center also conducts several easygoing guided outings, including a $55 Back to Nature trip that highlights the marine life around Dana Point. Visit their website for more details.

Skating

The 22-mile-long South Beach Trail that runs from Pacific Palisades to Torrance is one of the premier skating spots in the country. In-line skating is especially popular, but conventional skates are often seen here, too. Skating is allowed just about everywhere bicycling is, but be advised that cyclists have the right of way. Spokes 'N Stuff, 4175 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey (tel. 310/306-3332; weekends only), is just one of many places to rent wheels near the Venice portion of Ocean Front Walk. In the South Bay, in-line skate rentals are available 1 block from The Strand at Hermosa Cyclery, 20 13th St. (tel. 310/374-7816). Skates cost $6 per hour ($18 for the day); kneepads and wrist guards come with every rental.

Segway Rentals in Santa Monica

Those weird-looking upright electronic scooters zipping around the Santa Monica beach scene are coming from the Segway Los Angeles rental shop near the Santa Monica Pier. Riding these Human Transporters is a hoot: lean forward, go forward; lean back, go back; stand straight up, stop. Simple. After the free 25-minute lesson it becomes intuitive, then you're on your own to scoot around the paved shoreline path around Venice Beach and the Santa Monica Pier (everyone checks you out). It's the closest you'll come to being a celebrity. A 2-hour rental with lesson is $75. Guided tours are available as well. Note: You have be at least 21 to rent one. 1660 Ocean Ave., 1 block south of the pier, Santa Monica; tel. 310/395-1395

Surfing

George Freeth (1883-1918), who first surfed Redondo Beach in 1907, is widely credited with introducing the sport to California. But surfing didn't catch on until the 1950s, when CalTech graduate Bob Simmons invented a more maneuverable lightweight fiberglass board. The Beach Boys and other surf-music groups popularized Southern California in the minds of beach-babes and -dudes everywhere, and the rest, as they say, is history.

If you're a first-timer eager to learn the sport, contact Learn to Surf L.A. (tel. 310/663-2479). This highly respected school features a team of experienced instructors that will supply all necessary equipment and get you up and riding a foam board on your first day (trust me, it's a blast). Private lessons are $120, and group lesson are $75. Another great source for learning to surf is Malibu Longboards (tel. 310/467-6898 or 818/990-7633), the official surf instruction for Santa Monica College (don't you wish you'd spent a semester here?). The company offers private lessons for $60 per hour, as well as group lessons and 5-day surf camps.

If you want to try it on your own, surfboards are available for rent at shops near all top surfing beaches in the L.A. area. Zuma Jay Surfboards, 22775 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu (tel. 310/456-8044), Malibu's oldest surf shop, is about a quarter-mile south of Malibu Pier. Rentals are about $20 per day, plus $8 for wet suits in winter. For more information about surfing in Southern California, log on to the Surfline website.

The Surfing Rabbi -- This is so only-in-L.A.: Surfing instructor and orthodox rabbi Nachum Shifren hosts "Surf and Soul" sermons on the sand in Santa Monica. Not only will the rabbi teach you how to surf, his wise words will empower you to succeed in this competitive world we live in. Yes, even gentiles are welcome (tel. 310/877-1482).

Tennis

While soft-surface courts are more popular on the East Coast, hard surfaces are most common in California. If your hotel doesn't have a court and can't suggest any courts nearby, try the well-maintained, well-lit Griffith Park Tennis Courts, on Commonwealth Road, just east of Vermont Avenue (tel. 323/662-7772). Call or log on to the website of the City of Los Angeles Department of Recreation and Parks (tel. 888/527-2757) to see a long list of free tennis courts or make a reservation at a municipal court near you. Tip: Spectators can watch free collegiate matches at the UCLA campus's L.A. Tennis Center from October through May. For a schedule of tournaments, call tel. 310/206-6831.

Windsurfing

Invented and patented by Hoyle Schweitzer of Torrance in 1968, windsurfing, or sail-boarding, is a fun sport that's much more difficult than it looks. Long Beach Windsurf & Kayak Center, 3850 E. Ocean Ave., Long Beach (tel. 562/433-1014), offers lesson and rentals in Alamitos Bay. About $25 will get you the use of a board for 4 hours; a $115 learner's package includes instruction from 8am to noon, use of board and wet suit, and a certificate for a free half-day rental once you've gotten the hang of it. Kayak and in-line skate rentals are also available.

Topanga Canyon: Nature's Solution to L.A.'s Noise Pollution

When you've had enough of cellphones, cement, and Mercedes, then it's time to take the short drive from L.A. to Topanga Canyon to bargain shop, drink margaritas, and play cowgirl for a day. Here's the game plan: Call Los Angeles Horseback Riding (tel. 818/591-2032) and make a reservation for a guided horseback ride in the late afternoon. Next, take the winding drive up Topanga Canyon Boulevard to tiny Topanga, one of the last art communities left in Southern California -- it was the former haunt of Fleetwood Mac, Neil Young, and other music legends of the '60s and '70s -- and the perfect antidote to the dig-me L.A. scene. Spend an hour or so picking though the treasure-trove of vintage clothes, accessories, and antiques at Hidden Treasures (154 S. Topanga Canyon Blvd; tel. 310/455-2998), one of the funkiest little shops I've ever seen (the custom-made sea-theme toilet seat lids are mesmerizing). After the scenic horseback ride through the boulder-strewn Topanga canyons lined with oaks, sycamores, chaparral, and sage, finish off your relaxing day with a leisurely dinner in Topanga at Abuelitas (137 S. Topanga Canyon Rd; tel. 310/455-8778), a popular Mexican restaurant; or try the romantic Inn of the Seventh Ray.