The Southern Section

For a superb panorama encompassing ocean and mountains, watch for the Lookout Trail just outside of Woody Point en route to Trout River. This steep trail is about 5km (3 miles) round-trip.

The Tablelands Trail departs from barren Trout River gulch and follows an old gravel road up to Winterhouse Brook Canyon. You can bushwhack along the rocky river a bit farther upstream, or turn back. It's about 2km (1.25 miles) each way, depending on how adventurous you feel. This is a good trail to get a feel for the unique ecology of the Tablelands. Look for the signboards that explain the geology at the trail head, and at the roadside pull-off on your left before reaching the trail head.

Experienced hikers looking for a challenge should seek out the Green Gardens Trail. There are two trail heads to this loop; I'd recommend the second one (closer to Trout River). You'll start by trekking through a rolling, infertile landscape, and then the plunge begins as you descend down, down, down wooden steps and a steep trail toward the sea. The landscape grows more lush by the moment, and soon you'll be walking through extraordinary coastal meadows on crumbling bluffs high above the surf.

The trail follows the shore northward for about 4 or 5km (2.5-3 miles), and it's one of the most picturesque coastal trails I've hiked anywhere in the world. In July, the irises and a whole symphony of other wildflowers bloom wildly. The entire loop is about 16km (9.5 miles) and is rugged and very hilly; allow about 5 or 6 hours. An abbreviated version involves walking clockwise on the loop to the shore's edge, then retracing one's steps back uphill. That's about 9km (5.5 miles).

The Northern Section

Hikes & Walks -- The summit of Gros Morne Mountain is the Mount Everest of this national park -- at 793m (2,644 ft.) it's the highest peak in the park, and the most demanding. What makes it especially challenging isn't so much the height or the length (about 16km/10 miles round-trip). It's the terrain. You expend considerable energy scrambling over loose scree on the upper reaches. But the views of the bay and beyond to the Gulf of St. Lawrence are well worth it if the weather cooperates. Allow about 7 or 8 hours for the whole excursion, and bring plenty of water and food. Pick up a trail brochure at the information center. (If you're traveling with a pet, note that this is the one trail on which dogs aren't allowed.)

Even if you're not planning on signing up for the Western Brook Pond boat tour (reconsider!), you owe yourself a walk up to the pond's wharf and possibly beyond. The 45-minute one-way trek from the parking lot north of Sally's Cove follows well-trod trail and boardwalk through bog and boreal forest. When you arrive at the wharf, the view to the mouth of the fjord will take your breath away. A very well executed outdoor exhibit explains how glaciers shaped the landscape in front of you.

Two spur trails continue on either side of the pond for a short distance. The Snug Harbour Trail, which follows the northern shore to a primitive campsite (registration required), is especially appealing. After crossing a seasonal bridge at the pond outlet, you'll pass through scrubby woods before emerging on a long and wonderful sand and pebble beach; this is a great destination for a relaxed afternoon picnic and requisite nap. The hike all the way to Snug Harbour is about 8km (5 miles) one-way.

Three easy but enjoyable strolls depart from the Berry Hill Campground just north of Rocky Harbour. Berry Hill Pond is a perfect place for walking off your meal in the evening; it's a loop just 2km (1.25 miles) long. The equally short 1.5km (1-mile) round-trip hike up Berry Hill is a saunter except for a demanding set of steps at the end; a short loop trail around the summit affords excellent views. Departing from the same parking area is the somewhat more demanding Baker Brook Falls Trail. This level trail runs 10km (6.25 miles) round-trip, ending at a wooden platform overlooking tumultuous, wild cascades. The trail crosses large amounts of bog on boardwalks.

Backpacking -- Backcountry camping is available only at Snug Harbour on Western Brook Pond. This requires an 8km (5-mile) hike from the road. Register for a site at the visitor center; the cost is C$15 (US$12).

For an unforgettable but exceedingly demanding adventure, inquire at the center about the backpack trips along the Long Range and the North Rim. On both of these, you strike out cross-country, bushwhacking through the high subarctic terrain. These traverses require 2 or 3 nights to complete. You also need to be in good physical condition and well versed in a range of backcountry skills, including proficiency with map and compass. A brief pretrip orientation at the visitor center is mandatory, as is the rental of a small (pager-size) locator beacon to help pinpoint your location should you become disoriented. A one-time backcountry fee of C$30 to C$35 (US$20-US$23) per person is charged (including locator rental) for these trips.