Getting There -- If you're driving up or down the Florida coast, you'll probably reach the Palm Beach area by way of I-95. Exit at Belvedere Road or Okeechobee Boulevard, and head east to reach the most central part of Palm Beach.

Visitors on their way to or from Orlando or Miami should take the Florida Turnpike, a toll road with a speed limit of 65 mph. Tolls are pricey, though; you may pay upward of $9 from Orlando and $4 from Miami. If you're coming from Florida's west coast, you can take either S.R. 70, which runs north of Lake Okeechobee to Fort Pierce, or S.R. 80, which runs south of the lake to Palm Beach.

All major airlines fly to the Palm Beach International Airport, at Congress Avenue and Belvedere Road (tel. 561/471-7400). Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL) has a terminal in West Palm Beach, at 201 S. Tamarind Ave. (tel. 561/832-6169).

Getting Around -- Although a car is almost a necessity in this area, a recently revamped public transportation system is extremely convenient for getting to some attractions in both West Palm and Palm Beach. Palm Tran covers 32 routes with more than 140 buses. The fare is $1.25 for adults, 60¢ for children 3 to 18, seniors, and riders with disabilities. Free route maps are available by calling tel. 561/233-4-BUS. Information operators are available Monday through Saturday from 6am to 7pm.

In downtown West Palm, free shuttles from City Place to Clematis Street operate Monday through Friday from 9am until 4pm, with plans to expand operations to evenings and weekends, too. Allegedly, the shuttles come every 5 minutes, but I'd count on them taking longer. Look for the bubblegum-pink minibuses throughout downtown. Call tel. 561/833-8873 for details.

For a more nostalgic route, consider the stately wicker chariots that run in the downtown area, especially on weekends and during special events. Rates vary according to the time of day, but average $1 to $2 per block, plus a per-person charge of $1. Call tel. 561/835-8922 for pickup or information.

Visitor Information -- The Palm Beach County Convention and Visitors Bureau, 1555 Palm Beach Lakes Blvd., Suite 204, West Palm Beach, FL 33401 (tel. 800/554-PALM or 561/471-3995), distributes an informative brochure and answers questions about visiting the Palm Beaches. Ask for a map as well as a copy of the Arts and Attractions Calendar, a day-to-day guide to art, music, stage, and other events in the county.