Lucky 77: Hitting the Beaches -- One of the supreme pleasures of visiting the Portland area is the opportunity to sample some of its many great beaches and lighthouse and ocean views. Even within Portland city limits, you can laze on the Eastern Promenade's tiny East End Beach for free; though I wouldn't swim there -- a wastewater treatment plant looms nearby -- you can take in great views. Across the bridge in South Portland, Willard Beach is a good neighborhood beach: small, with friendly locals, dogs, and tidal rocks to scramble over. There's plenty of parking here.

For the best of the out-of-town beaches and views, though, strike out for Cape Elizabeth, a moneyed suburb just south. (From Portland's State St., cross the Rte. 77 bridge going south, then follow signs.) You can choose from a trio of good beaches as you meander along Route 77, a lovely lane that occasionally recalls England with its sweeping views of marsh, ocean, or cultivated field.

Two Lights State Park (tel. 207/799-5871) is impressively scenic, and has the advantage of a great lobster-and-seafood hut beside it: the Two Lights Lobster Shack, open summer only. Farther south on 77, Crescent Beach State Park (tel. 207/799-5871) is a lovely mile-long curve of sand with ample parking, barbecue pits, picnic tables, and a snack bar. Both charge a fee from Memorial Day to Columbus Day. The town-operated Fort Williams State Park, located on Shore Road in Cape Elizabeth just off Route 77; is a bit harder to find, but offers free access and supreme views of both the ocean and the much-photographed Portland Head Light. There is also a small museum and a gift shop inside the lighthouse.

A few miles farther south, turn left onto Route 207 for two more options: Scarborough Beach Park, on the left, another long strip of clean sand and dunes with changing facilities ($3.50 for access in summer) or -- a bit farther along, on the right at the end of Ferry Road -- quieter Ferry Beach, which is free and has good views of Old Orchard to the south.