Mexico City is a great place for looking around on your own, and in general this is the easiest and least expensive way to see what you like. But if your time is limited, you may want to acclimate yourself quickly by taking a tour or two.

Among the noncommercial offerings are free guided tours sponsored by the Mexico City Historical Center (tel. 55/5345-8000, ext. 1499), in the 18th-century home of Don Manuel de Heras y Soto, at Donceles and República de Chile. Groups meet each Sunday at 10:45am at a central gathering place for that day's tour, which varies from week to week. These tours might explore a historic downtown street, cafes and theaters, cemeteries, or the colonial churches of Xochimilco. Most tours, which last about 2 hours, are in Spanish; as many as 300 people may be divided among 10 guides. Visitors can ask a day in advance for a guide who speaks their language. The center's phone is almost always busy, so you may opt to visit the office, in the far back of the building, on the right and up a spiral staircase, to get a list of upcoming tours and gathering locations. Office hours are Monday through Friday from 9am to 3pm and 6 to 9pm.

Tours: The Downside

Many readers have written to say they were unhappy with the sightseeing tours of this or that company. The reasons are myriad: The tour was too rushed; the guide knew nothing and made up stories about the sights; the tour group spent most of its time in a handicrafts shop (chosen by the tour company) rather than seeing the sights. Do tour companies get a kickback from souvenir shops? Of course! If you meet someone who has recently taken a guided tour and liked it, go with the same company. Otherwise, you might do well to see the sights on your own, following the detailed information in this book. Your hotel can arrange a private car by the hour or day -- generally with a driver who is also an English-speaking guide. This can cost less or only slightly more than an organized tour, with greater flexibility and personalized service.

The many commercial tours include a 4-hour city tour of such sites as the Metropolitan Cathedral, the National Palace, and Chapultepec Park and Castle; a longer tour to the Shrine of Guadalupe and nearby pyramids at Teotihuacán; and the Sunday tour that begins with the Ballet Folklórico, moves on to the Floating Gardens of Xochimilco, and may or may not include lunch and the afternoon bullfights. Almost as popular are 1-day and overnight tours to Puebla, Cuernavaca, Taxco, and Acapulco. There are also several nightclub tours. Book through your hotel concierge or tour desk.