Few finer sights exist than watching the M/S Mount Washington steam across the broad waters of the lake from atop Mt. Major, a popular and accessible peak near the lake's southern tip. The mountain (1,780 ft.) isn't major by White Mountain standards, but yields a great view of the waters and the more legitimate mountains to the north. The well-used ascent is 1 1/2 miles long; plan on somewhat more than an hour to get to the summit. The trail head is 4 miles north of Alton Bay on Route 11.

Also near the lake is the Gunstock Recreation Area (tel. 603/293-4341), a four-season area on Route 11A that's been attracting outdoorspeople for more than half a century. This heavily forested, 2,000-acre park in the upland hills southeast of the lake features camping at 420 sites, fishing, swimming, and a plethora of hiking trails that wind through the scenic Belknap Mountains. (You can also ski there in winter.)

A lower-elevation destination popular with swimmers is Ellacoya State Beach (tel. 603/293-7821) on Route 11 between Alton Bay and Weirs Beach. The 600-foot sandy beach has superb views across the waters to the rolling hills on the opposite shore and offers basic amenities such as changing areas and a snack bar. The day-use fee is $3 per person. The beach also has RV camping, with 38 sites featuring full hookups.

In Laconia, the Winni Sailboarders School and Outlet, 687 Union Ave. (tel. 603/528-4110), puts you in a kayak or on a sailboard on Opechee Bay, a long, fingerlike lake inlet. Lessons are also available. Along the lake's northern shore, Wild Meadow Canoes, on Route 25 between Center Harbor and Meredith (tel. 603/253-7536), rents canoes, kayaks, and small boats for exploring the big lake and some of the smaller waters nearby. A canoe rents for $30 per full day; $20 for a half day. Standard kayaks rent for $40 per day or $25 per half-day, performance-grade kayaks for more.