An excellent opportunity to explore the historic downtown area of Taos is offered by Taos Historic Walking Tours (tel. 505/758-4020). Tours cost $10 and take 1 1/2 to 2 hours, leaving from the Mabel Dodge Luhan house at 10am Monday to Saturday (June-Aug). Closed Sundays and holidays. Call to make an appointment during the off season.

If you'd really like a taste of Taos history and drama, call Enchantment Dreams Walking Tours (tel. 505/776-2562). Roberta Courtney Meyers, a theater artist, dramatist, and composer, will tour you through Taos's history while performing a number of characters, such as Georgia O'Keeffe and Kit Carson. Walking tours cost $20 per person.