Dunedin is blessed with a number of excellent tour operators who provide enjoyable sightseeing the easy way. You'll find a profusion of pamphlets at the visitor center on The Octagon. During summer months, it pays to reserve early.

Many of the operators are geared toward peninsula exploration. For NZ$75 (US$53/£27), Wild South (tel. 03/454-3116) will guide you to the Yellow-eyed Penguin Reserve. You'll also observe several species of wading birds in their natural habitat, fur seals, sometimes Hooker sea lions, albatross, and various seabirds. The 6-hour trip requires a reasonable degree of fitness, warm clothing, and good footwear, as you'll be walking 2 hours out of the 6 and there are steep inclines.

Outdoor types will find pleasure in the sea-kayak, rafting, walking, and mountain bike tours offered by Wild Earth Adventures (tel. 03/473-6535). Its Ocean Discovery Kayak Tour takes you along wild beaches and soaring sea cliffs to the albatross colony and offers amazing photographic opportunities. It costs NZ$95 (US$67/£34) per person.

Also popular is Elm Wildlife Tours (tel. 0800/356-563 in NZ, or 03/454-4121); twice voted New Zealand's best wildlife tour, it gives you a sound insight into the habits of various penguin species, fur seals, and sea lions. Viewing hides give you a close encounter and options range from NZ$79 to NZ$125 (US$56-US$89/£29-£45).

Hair-Raising Fun -- If you think ghosts don't exist, Andrew Smith's Hair Raiser Ghost Walk (tel. 03/477-2258) might convince you otherwise. Get behind the city's beautiful architecture and discover the truth behind many famous ghost sightings, the wandering habits of the supernatural, and The Octagon fires. Based on fact, not fiction, it's not for the fainthearted and there's no guarantee of a good night's sleep afterwards. No garlic or crucifixes allowed. Tours leave from outside the visitor center daily April through September at 6pm, and October through March at 8pm; they cost NZ$30 (US$24/£12) per person. No credit cards.

Take the hedonistic approach to touring with Luxury Chauffeurs (tel. 03/477-3144; fax 03/477-3145). It has a very good 8-hour Eco Tour, which includes the Royal Albatross Centre, Larnach Castle, and other peninsular highlights for NZ$300 (US$213/£108) per person. Classic Jaguar Limousines (tel. 03/488-5961) offers a very good Dunedin City Heritage Tour for NZ$200 (US$142/£72) per person.

A Passion for Fashion -- The best way to get a feel for Dunedin's thriving fashion industry is to join Jeannie Hayden on her Inner City tour, Passion for Fashion (tel. 03/472-7582). She'll take you to design studios, fashion workrooms, jewelry studios, avant-garde fashion stores, and some of the city's best retailers. The morning fashion tour (9:30am-2pm) includes coffee and lunch and costs NZ$120 (US$85/£43) per person; the afternoon jewelry tour (3-6pm) includes coffee and early-evening drinks and costs from NZ$75 (US$53/£27) per person. I could have done it all over a second time.

Coach (Bus) Tours

Citibus Newton Tours, Princes Street and Transport Place (tel. 03/477-5577), conducts excellent tours of varying duration, all with guides providing valuable insight into the area's highlights, along with the occasional anecdote to liven things up. All tours may be booked directly with Citibus Newton or at the visitor center. Pickups from your lodging can be arranged. The First City tour departs five times per day from the visitor center. The fare for this double-decker bus ride is NZ$20 (US$14/£7) per adult, NZ$10 (US$7.10/£3.60) per child under 15. They also offer and Otago Peninsula Tour that includes Larnach Castle and others that include either the Albatross Centre or Penguin Place.

Cruising the Peninsula

A number of cruise options can show you the wildlife delights of Otago Peninsula. The visitor center has a comprehensive selection of brochures and a helpful staff to help you sort out your priorities.

Locals are quick to tell you about the fantastic value offered through the family-owned and -operated Monarch Wildlife Cruises, Wharf and Fryatt streets (tel. 0800/666-272 in NZ, or 03/477-4276). Established in 1983 by owners with degrees in biology and a wealth of experience on research vessels, Monarch won the New Zealand Tourism Awards Natural Heritage category in 1994 and the Ecotourism category in 1997. The crew are experienced Department of Conservation officers or have degrees in zoology, so there's not much you won't be able to find out about albatross, New Zealand fur seals, yellow-eyed penguins, and other species you're likely to pass. If you're short on time, opt for the 1-hour albatross cruise from Wellers Rock, which costs NZ$40 (US$28/£14) for adults, NZ$15 (US$11/£5.40) for children ages 5 to 16. (Remember that Wellers Rock is a 45-min. drive from Central City.) Monarch also has full harbor cruises from Dunedin lasting just over 5 hours. Dress warmly and take your camera; if you're unsure about which option to take, note that the most popular is the cruise-and-bus trip that includes a guided tour of Penguin Place -- it gives you a taste of everything. They run half-day tours from NZ$80 to NZ$120 (US$57-US$85/£29-£43) and full-day options from NZ$190 to NZ$230 (US$135-US$163/£69-£83).