You can have an active vacation here any time of year; Hilton Head's subtropical climate ranges in temperature from the 50s (10°-15°C) in winter to the mid-80s (around 30°C) in summer. And if you've had your fill of historic sights in Savannah or Charleston, don't worry -- the attractions on Hilton Head mainly consist of nature preserves, beaches, and other places to play.

Coastal Discovery Museum, 100 William Hilton Pkwy. (tel. 843/689-6767), hosts 12 separate guided tours and cruises. Tours go along island beaches and salt marshes or stop at Native American sites and the ruins of old forts or long-gone plantations. Children can search for sharks' teeth with an identification chart. The nature, beach, and history tours generally cost $12 for adults and $7 for children. The dolphin and nature cruise costs $18 per adult, $12 per child, and a kayak trip costs $27 per person. Hours are Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm, Sunday 10am to 3pm.

Beaches

Travel & Leisure ranked Hilton Head's beaches among the most beautiful in the world. We concur. The sands are extremely firm, providing a sound surface for biking, hiking, jogging, and beach games. In summer, watch for the endangered loggerhead turtles that lumber ashore at night to bury their eggs.

All beaches on Hilton Head are public. Land bordering the beaches, however, is private property. Most beaches are safe, although there's sometimes an undertow at the northern end of the island. Lifeguards are posted only at major beaches, and concessions are available to rent beach chairs, umbrellas, and watersports equipment.

There are a number of public-access sites to popular beach areas. Coligny Beach at Coligny Circle at Pope Avenue and South Forest Beach Drive is the island's busiest strip of sand with toilets, sand showers, a playground, and changing rooms. Alder Lane, entered along South Forest Beach Road at Alder Lane, offers parking and is less crowded. Toilets are also found here. Off the William Hilton Parkway, Dreissen Beach Park at Bradley Beach Road has toilets, sand showers, and plenty of parking as well as a playground and picnic tables. Of the beaches on the island's north side, we prefer Folly Field Beach, on Starfish Road, which has more limited parking but offers toilets and sand showers. The island also has a number of other less accessible and less desirable beaches. Technically, all beaches are public.

Biking

Enjoy Hilton Head's 25 miles of bicycle paths. There are even bike paths running parallel to U.S. 278. Beaches are firm enough to support wheels, and every year, cyclists seem to delight in dodging the waves or racing the fast-swimming dolphins in the nearby water.

Most hotels and resorts rent bikes to guests. If yours doesn't, try Hilton Head Bicycle Company, off Sea Pines Circle at 112 Arrow Rd. (tel. 800/995-4319 or 843/686-6888). The cost starts at $27 per week. Baskets, child carriers, locks, and headgear are supplied. The inventory includes cruisers, BMXs, mountain bikes, tandems, and bikes for kids. Hours are daily 9am to 5pm. The company also offers free delivery and pickup.

Another rental place is Peddling Pelican (tel. 843/785-3546), offering beach cruisers, tandems, child carriers, and bikes for kids. There's free delivery to any area hotel or resort. Cost is $15 for a full day, or $23 for 3 days. Hours are 9am to 6pm daily.

Cruises & Tours

To explore Hilton Head's waters, contact Adventure Cruises, Inc., Shelter Cove Harbour, Suite G, Harbourside III (tel. 843/785-4558). Outings include a 1 1/2-hour dolphin-watch cruise, which costs adults $20 and children $10.

Another outfitter, Drifter & Gypsy Excursions, South Sea Pines Dr., South Beach Marina (tel. 843/363-2900), takes its 65-foot Gypsy, holding 89 passengers, on dolphin watches, sightseeing cruises, and nature cruises. Call for more information to see what's happening at the time of your visit.

Fishing

No license is needed for saltwater fishing, although freshwater licenses are required for the island's lakes and ponds. The season for fishing offshore is April through October. Inland fishing is good between September and December. Crabbing is also popular; crabs are easy to catch in low water from docks, boats, or right off banks.

Off Hilton Head, you can go deep-sea fishing for amberjack, barracuda, shark, and king mackerel. Many rentals are available; we've recommended only those with the best track records. The previously recommended Drifter & Gypsy Excursions, South Sea Pines Drive, South Beach Marina (tel. 843/363-2900), features a 50-passenger, 50-foot drifter vessel that offers 5-hour offshore and inshore fishing excursions. The 32-foot Boomerang fishing boat is available for private offshore and inshore custom fishing charters lasting up to 8 hours.

Harbour Town Yacht Basin, Harbour Town Marina (tel. 843/671-2704), has four boats of various sizes and prices. The Manatee, a 40-foot vessel, can carry a group of six. The rates, set for six passengers, are $425 for 4 hours, $640 for 6 hours, and $850 for 8 hours. A charge of $13 per hour is added for each additional passenger.

The Hero and The Echo are 32-foot ships. Their rates for a group of six are $390 for 4 hours, $585 for 6 hours, and $780 for 8 hours. A smaller three-passenger inshore boat is priced at $325 for 4 hours, $490 for 6 hours, and $650 for 8 hours.

A cheaper way to go deep-sea fishing -- only $47 per person -- is aboard The Drifter (tel. 843/363-2900), a party boat that departs from the South Beach Marina Village. Ocean-bottom fishing is possible at an artificial reef 12 miles offshore.

Golf

With 24 challenging golf courses on the island and an additional 16 within a 30-minute drive, this is heaven for both professional and novice golfers. Some of golf's most celebrated architects -- including George and Tom Fazio, Robert Trent Jones, Pete Dye, and Jack Nicklaus -- have designed championship courses on the island. Wide, scenic fairways and rolling greens have earned Hilton Head the reputation of being the resort with the most courses on any number of the "World's Best" lists.

Many of Hilton Head's championship courses are open to the public, including the George Fazio Course [ST] at Palmetto Dunes Resort (tel. 843/785-1130), an 18-hole, 6,534-yard, par-70 course that Golf Digest ranked in the top 50 of its "75 Best American Resort Courses." The course has been cited for its combined length and keen accuracy. The cost is $59 to $75 for 18 holes, and hours are daily from 6:30am to 6pm.

Old South Golf Links, 50 Buckingham Plantation Dr., Bluffton (tel. 800/257-8997 or 843/785-5353), is an 18-hole, 6,772-yard, par-72 course, open daily from 7:30am to 7pm. It's recognized as one of the "Top 10 New Public Courses" by Golf Digest, which cites its panoramic views and setting ranging from an oak forest to tidal salt marshes. Greens fees range from $50 to $80. The course lies on Highway 278, 1 mile before the bridge leading to Hilton Head.

Hilton Head National, Highway 278 (tel. 843/842-5900), is a Gary Player Signature Golf Course, including a full-service pro shop and a grill and driving range. It's a 27-hole, 6,779-yard, par-72 course with gorgeous scenery that evokes Scotland. Greens fees range from $55 to $79, and hours are daily 7am to 6pm.

Island West Golf Club, Highway 278 (tel. 843/689-6660), was nominated in 1992 by Golf Digest as the best new course of the year. With its backdrop of oaks, elevated tees, and rolling fairways, it's a challenging but playable 18-hole, 6,803-yard, par-72 course. Greens fees range from $37 to $57, and hours are from 7am to 6pm daily.

Robert Trent Jones Course at the Palmetto Dunes Resort (tel. 843/785-1138) is an 18-hole, 6,710-yard, par-72 oceanfront course. The greens fees are $89 to $105 for 18 holes, and hours are daily from 7am to 6pm.

Horseback Riding

Riding through beautiful maritime forests and nature preserves is reason enough to visit Hilton Head. We like Lawton Stables, 190 Greenwood Dr., Sea Pines (tel. 843/671-2586), offering rides for both adults and kids (kids 7 and under ride ponies) through the Sea Pines Forest Preserve. The cost is $50 per person for a ride that lasts somewhat longer than an hour. Riders must weigh under 240 pounds. The stables are open Monday to Saturday 8:30am to 5:30pm. Reservations are necessary.

Jogging

Our favorite place for jogging is Harbour Town at Sea Pines. Go for a run through the town just as the sun is going down. Later, you can explore the marina and have a refreshing drink at one of the many outdoor cafes. In addition, the island offers lots of paved paths and trails that cut through scenic areas. Jogging along U.S. 278, the main artery, can be dangerous because of heavy traffic, however.

Kayak Tours

Cool Breeze Kayak Tours, Pinkney Island Wildlife Refuge (tel. 877/286-5154), operates guided tours in Broad Creek. The cost is $35 to $60 per person. Reservations are necessary, but experience isn't.

South Beach Marina Village (tel. 843/671-2643) allows you to tour Low Country waterways by kayak. A 2-hour Dolphin Nature Tour costs $40 (half-price for children under 12). The tour takes you through the salt-marsh creeks of the Calibogue Sound or Pinckney Island Wildlife Refuge. The trip begins with instructions on how to control your boat.

Nature Preserves

The Audubon-Newhall Preserve, Palmetto Bay Road (tel. 843/689-2989), is a 50-acre preserve on the south end of the island. Here you can walk along marked trails to observe wildlife in its native habitat. Guided tours are available when plants are blooming. Except for public toilets, there are no amenities. The preserve is open from sunrise to sunset; admission is free.

The second-leading preserve is also on the south end of the island. Sea Pines Forest Preserve, Sea Pines Plantation (tel. 843/363-4530), is a 605-acre public wilderness with marked walking trails. Nearly all the birds and animals known to live on Hilton Head can be seen here. (Yes, there are alligators, but there are also less fearsome creatures, such as egrets, herons, osprey, and white-tailed deer.) All trails lead to public picnic areas in the center of the forest. The preserve is open from sunrise to sunset year-round. Maps and toilets are available.

Sailing

Pau Hana and Flying Circus, Palmetto Bay Marina (tel. 843/686-2582), are two charter sailboats on Hilton Head piloted by Capt. Jeanne Zailckas. You can pack a picnic lunch and bring your cooler aboard for a 2 1/2-hour trip -- in the morning or afternoon, or at sunset. The cost is $30 for adults (12 and older) and $18 for children 11 and under. Flying Circus offers private 2-hour trips for up to six people costing $210. Both charters conduct dolphin watch tours. Call for daytime special rates for fewer than six people.

H2 Sports, Harbour Town Marina (tel. 843/671-4386), offers jet-skiing, parasailing, eco-tours, and water-skiing. We especially recommend their eco-tours (or "enviro," as they are called). Passengers head out on Zodiac inflatable boats for close encounters with wildlife, including dolphin sightings and bird-watching. Rates are $26 to $34 and $19 to $22 for kids 12 and under.

Tennis

Tennis magazine ranked Hilton Head among its "50 Greatest U.S. Tennis Resorts." No other domestic destination can boast such a concentration of tennis facilities: more than 300 courts that are ideal for beginning, intermediate, and advanced players. The island has 19 tennis clubs, seven of which are open to the public. A wide variety of tennis clinics and daily lessons are available.

Sea Pines Racquet Club, Sea Pines Plantation (tel. 843/363-4495), has been ranked by Tennis magazine as a top-50 resort and was selected by the Robb Report as the best tennis resort in the United States. The club has been the site of more nationally televised tennis events than any other location. Two hours of tennis are complimentary for guests of the hotel; otherwise, there's a $22-per-hour charge. The club has 23 clay courts (2 are lighted for night play).

Port Royal Racquet Club, Port Royal Plantation (tel. 843/686-8803), offers 10 clay and 4 hard courts, plus 2 natural-grass courts. Night games are possible on all courts. Charges range from $20 to $32 per hour, and reservations should be made a day in advance. Clinics are $20 per hour for adults and $15 for children.

Hilton Head Island Beach and Tennis Resort, 40 Folly Field Rd. (tel. 843/842-4402), features 10 lighted hard courts, costing only $10 per hour (free to guests).

Palmetto Dunes Tennis Center, Palmetto Dunes Resort (tel. 843/785-1152), has 23 clay and 2 hard courts (some lighted for night play). Hotel guests pay $23 per hour; otherwise, the charge is $28 per hour.

Windsurfing

Hilton Head is not recommended as a windsurfing destination. Finding a place to windsurf is quite difficult, and one windsurfer warns that catching a tailwind at the public beaches at the airport and the Holiday Inn could land you at the bombing range on Parris Island, the Marine Corps' basic-training facility. Your resort may have equipment for rent, although what's usually available has been described as antiquated.