Hitting the Beaches

Perth shares Sydney's good luck in having beaches in the metropolitan area -- in an almost continuous line from Cottesloe in the south to Quinns Rocks in the north, including a section called the Sunset Coast. Mornings are usually best, because the sea breeze can make the afternoons unpleasant in summer. Evenings and sunsets are lovely on quiet days. Always swim between the red and yellow flags, which denote a safe swimming zone.

Bus nos. 400 and 408 run to Scarborough Beach every 15 minutes each day, while 102 goes to Cottesloe every 30 minutes. Bus no. 458 operates a summer timetable along the northern beaches from Scarborough to Hillarys, half-hourly on weekends and public holidays and hourly on weekdays, in both directions. Surfboards under 1.2m (4 ft.) can be carried on 400, 408, and 458. Bus no. 381 operates a weekday service between Fremantle and Warwick, with stops at both Cottesloe and Scarborough.

The three most popular beaches are Cottesloe, Scarborough, and Trigg.

Cottesloe -- This pretty crescent, graced by the Edwardian-style Indiana Tea House, is Perth's most fashionable beach. It has grassed slopes overlooking the beach, safe swimming, and a small surf break. Some good cafes and hotels are nearby. Train: Cottesloe, then walk several hundred meters (between a quarter- and a half-mile). Bus: 102.

Scarborough -- Scarborough's white sands stretch for miles from the base of the Hotel Rendezvous Observation City. Swimming is generally safe, and surfers are always guaranteed a wave, although inexperienced swimmers should take a rain check when the surf is rough. The Australian Surf Life Saving Championships will be held here in late March 2008 and 2009. The busy shopping precinct across the road means there's always somewhere to buy lunch and drinks. Bus: 400.

Trigg -- Surfers like Trigg best for its consistent swells, but it can have dangerous rips. Stay within the flags. Bus: 400 to Scarborough, then walk, or bus 458 (summer).

Biking

Perth's superb bike-track network stretches for miles along the Swan River, through Kings Park, around Fremantle, and all the way along the beaches. A great 9.5km (6-mile) track enables a complete loop around Perth Water, the broad expanse of river in front of the central business district. The state Department of Transport's cycling division, Bikewest, publishes a range of useful bike-route maps to the city. They are available in bike shops, from most newsdealers, and at the Perth Map Centre, 900 Hay St. (tel. 08/9322 5733).

Rental from About Bike Hire by the Swan River at the corner of Riverside Drive and Plain Street (tel. 08/9221 2665), about 2km (1 1/4 miles) from the city center, is A$9 (US$7.20/UK£3.70) for an hour, or A$30 (US$24/UK£12) for a 24-hour day for adults, and A$6 (US$4.80/UK£2.45) or A$18 (US$14/UK£7.35) for children under 12. The day rate, which reduces the longer you have the bike, requires a credit card imprint as deposit, and includes a complimentary helmet (required by law in Australia), lock, and pump. Kayaks and in-line skates can also be hired. It's open 10am to 5pm Monday to Saturday, 9am to 5pm Sunday.

Golf

Most convenient to the city is Burswood Park Public Golf Course, adjacent to (but not part of) the Burswood International Resort Casino, across the river on the Great Eastern Highway, Burswood (tel. 08/9362 7576 pro shop). A 9-hole round is just A$17 (US$14/UK£6.95) weekdays and A$22 (US$18/UK£9) weekends and public holidays; 18 holes are A$25 (US$20/UK£10) or A$32 (US$26/UK£13). A cart is A$22 (US$18/UK£9) and club rental A$17 (US$14/UK£5.70) for 9 holes.

Even more scenic are the 27 championship fairways designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., at Joondalup Resort, Country Club Boulevard, Connolly, a 25km (16-mile) drive north of Perth (tel. 08/9400 8811 pro shop); and The Vines in the Swan Valley (tel. 08/9297 3000 resort, or 08/9297 0777 pro shop), which has two 18-hole championship bushland courses. Joondalup has twice been ranked the number-one Resort Golf Course in Australia by Golf Australia magazine. Kangaroos are seen regularly on both courses. You'll pay around A$65 (US$52/UK£20) for 9 holes or A$115 (US$92/UK£47) for 18 holes weekdays at Joondalup; and A$90 (US$72/UK£37) or A$140 (US$112/UK£57) on Saturdays and Sundays; all including use of a cart. At The Vines, fees are around A$50 (US$40/UK£20) for 9 holes Monday to Friday, A$64 (US$51/UK£26) weekends, and A$85 (US$68/UK£35) Monday to Friday or A$99 (US$79/UK£40) weekends for 18 holes. Add A$25 (US$20/UK£10) per person for a buggy. Dress standards apply at all courses (that is, in general shirts with collars, closed footwear, socks, no jeans or running suits; dress shorts are acceptable.)

Sailing

The tallest Tall Ship in Australia, the barquentine (three-masted) STS Leeuwin II (tel. 08/9430 4105), sails from B Shed at Victoria Quay, Fremantle, when it is not on voyages around Western Australia. You get the chance to try your hand at sailing the way it used to be, even clambering up the rigging. The ship takes 2 1/2-hour twilight or brunch trips at A$75 (US$60/UK£31) adults or A$40 (US$32/UK£16) children 3 to 12, or 4-hour half-day sails at A$99 (US$79/UK£40) adults or A$69 (US$55/UK£28) children.

Experienced sailors can sometimes find a spot in Thursdays' summer twilight events with members of the Royal Perth Yacht Club, Australia II Drive, Crawley (tel. 08/9389 1555, ask for the sailing administrator), if there is a place available. It's not spinnaker sailing, so the action is at an easy pace. All-white dress standards apply.

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

Just 19km (12 miles) off Perth, Rottnest Island's corals, reef fish, wrecks, and limestone caverns, in 18-to-35m (59-115-ft.) visibility, are a gift from heaven to Perth divers and snorkelers. Contact Rottnest Malibu Diving (tel. 08/9292 5111) on Rottnest Island to rent gear or join a dive trip.

Surfing

You will find good surfing at many city beaches, Scarborough and Trigg in particular. Rottnest Island also has a few breaks. Murray Smith Surf Centre, Shop 14, Luna Maxi Mart, Scarborough (tel. 08/9245 2988), rents long boards for A$20 (US$16/UK£8.15) for half a day or A$30 (US$24/UK£12) for the day, plus a A$100 (US$80/UK£41) refundable deposit. It also rents body boards. Surfing WA (tel. 08/9448 0004) runs surfing classes for A$50 (US$40/UK£20) per person per hour for groups of up to eight people. It gets cheaper the bigger your group is. Boards, wet suits, and sunscreen are provided.