Biking & Blading

Lloyd Hall in Fairmount Park, the most southerly Boathouse Row building along the Schuylkill River, is the jumping-off spot for these activities. You can rent bikes and skates at the Hall itself from Bell's Bikes, 1 Boathouse Row (tel. 215/543-6000). Once you're on wheels, the paths along the Schuylkill on Kelly (East River) Drive, West River Drive, and off West River Drive to Belmont Avenue are pure pleasure. The lower half of West River Drive along the Schuylkill is closed to vehicular traffic most weekend hours in summer. Rent bicycles from $25 a day at Bike Line at 1028 Arch near the Convention Center (tel. 215/923-1310). The ground is flat near the Schuylkill on either side but loops up sharply near Laurel Hill Cemetery or Manayunk. Anyone who enjoys cycling will love the outlying countryside, and you can rent bicycles in Lumberville, 8 miles north of New Hope on the Delaware, at the Lumberville Store, 3741 River Rd. (tel. 215/297-5388). Bicycles may be taken free on off-peak SEPTA trains, but you might want to think twice before you tote your Schwinn into Suburban Station: Some transit riders don't take to cyclists.

Visit the Bicycle Club of Philadelphia online for specific neighborhood recommendations. If you want my recommendation: Be careful if you decide to bike in town and always wear a bike helmet.

Boating

Spring through fall, Schuylkill Banks rents kayaks from its location along the river between Locust and Walnut streets. Kayak rentals are $30 for a single, $45 for a tandem. Go to the Schuylkill Banks website, or call tel. 215/222-6030 (ext. 100) for more information. Outside of the city, try Northbrook Canoe Co., north of Route 842 at 1810 Beagle Rd. W., in West Chester on Brandywine Creek (tel. 800/898-2279 or 610/793-2279), or Bucks County River Country, 2 Walter Lane in Point Pleasant, on Route 32, 7 miles north of the New Hope exit on I-95 (tel. 215/297-8823) with canoeing, inner tubing, and rafting on the Delaware River.

Fishing

Pennypack Creek and Wissahickon Creek are stocked from mid-April to December with trout and muskie and provide good, even rustic, conditions. A required 1- or 3-day license is $25, a 7-day license is $33, available at the Municipal Services Building, located at 1401 John F. Kennedy Blvd., near the Visitor Center. Outside the city, Ridley Creek and its state park (tel. 888/727-2757) and Brandywine Creek at Hibernia Park of Chester County (tel. 610/383-3812) are stocked with several kinds of trout.

Golf

The quality and variety of public access golf is wonderful. The city of Philadelphia operates five municipal courses in the region. All have 18 holes, and current fees range from $15 to $25 Monday through Friday and $20 to $30 on Saturday and Sunday. Not everyone can get onto the legendary Pine Valley or Merion, but Hugh Wilson of Merion also designed the pretty and challenging Cobbs Creek, 7200 Lansdowne Ave. at Haverford Ave. (tel. 215/877-8707). Karakung is the shorter 18-hole course, and preferred for seniors and juniors. John F. Byrne, 9550 Leon St. near the intersection of Frankford Avenue and Eden Street in North Philadelphia (tel. 215/632-8666), has an Alex Findlay design with Torresdale Creek meandering through or beside 10 holes, and plenty of rolling fairways and elevations. Walnut Lane, Walnut Lane and Henry Avenue in Roxborough (tel. 215/482-3370), places a premium on short game skills, with 10 par-3 holes and deep bunkers set into hills and valleys. There's also a driving range in East Fairmount Park.

Among the better township courses outside the city are Pine Crest Club, Route 202 (tel. 215/855-6112); Paxon Hollow Golf Club, Paxon Hollow Road in Marple Township (tel. 610/353-0220), under 6,000 yards and demanding accuracy; and Valley Forge Golf Club, 401 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia (tel. 610/337-1776). Expect fees of $65 and up.

Hiking

Fairmount Park has dozens of miles of paths. The extensions of the park into the Wissahickon Creek area are quite unspoiled, with dirt roads and no auto traffic.

Ice Skating

November to early March -- cold weather permitting -- the Blue Cross RiverRink at Festival Pier is open for public skating near the intersection of Columbus Boulevard and Spring Garden Street daily. Admission for one 2-hour session is $6; skate rental, $3. Call tel. 215/925-7465 or visit their website for details; the modest food court serves hot chocolate. One word of warning: This place can get way crowded on weekends. Across town, the indoor Penn Ice Rink at the Class of 1923 Arena (3130 Walnut St; tel. 215/898-1932) offers daily public skating sessions, usually from 1 to 3pm Sunday through Friday, and in early evening on Saturday (and sometimes Fri). Admission is $5.50 for daytime, $6.50 for evening; skate rental is $2.50. There are also weekly opportunities to freestyle and play open hockey games, and regular games from the women's and men's teams of Drexel and Penn.

Running & Jogging

Again, Fairmount Park has more trails than you could cover in a week. An 8.25-mile loop starts in front of the Museum of Art, goes up the east bank of the Schuylkill, across the river at Falls Bridge, and back down to the museum. At the north end, Forbidden Drive along the Wissahickon has loops of dirt/gravel of 5 miles and more, with no traffic. The Benjamin Franklin Bridge path from 5th and Vine streets is 1.75 miles each way. Wherever you choose, go during daylight hours. The newest, and greatest, addition to the running scene is the completion of the riverside Schuylkill Banks trail, which stretches from Locust to Race Street, behind the Art Museum, where it connects with the east and west river drives (Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., is to the west; Kelly Dr. to the east). Entrances for this smooth, convenient trail are at Locust and Walnut streets.

Swimming

Philadelphia has 86 municipal swimming pools, and many hotels have small lap pools. Municipal pools are open daily from 11am to 7pm and are free. Two of the best are Cobbs Creek, 63rd and Spruce streets, and FDR Pool, Broad and Pattison in South Philadelphia. Call tel. 215/686-1776 for details. Of the best indoor pools, try the Sporting Club at the Park Hyatt Philadelphia.

Tennis

Some 115 courts are scattered throughout Fairmount Park. You can join them individually or try your luck scoring a free court. You might also try the University of Pennsylvania's indoor courts at the Robert P. Levy Tennis Pavilion, 3130 Walnut St. (tel. 215/898-4741). Hours are limited, but guest fee and rates total $32 for per court/per hour spring through fall, $28 in winter.

Health Clubs

The Philadelphia Marriott, Four Seasons, Rittenhouse, and Sheraton Society Hill have in-house facilities that are free for guests but open to nonguests at an additional charge. The spectacular Sporting Club at the Bellevue (tel. 215/985-9876) offers $15 day-passes to guests of other hotels in Center City. Most other moderately priced hotels have at least a few Exercycles and an aerobics space. The 12th Street Gym, 204 S. 12th St. (tel. 215/985-4092), is a restored 1930s men's club (it's gay-friendly, and women are welcome these days), with a pool, full basketball court, courts for squash and racquetball, and weights and aerobics rooms. The basic rate is $10 to $20 per guest, depending on whether your hotel has an arrangement with the gym.