Arriving

By Plane -- The Geneva-Cointrin Airport (tel. 022/717-71-11), although busy, is quite compact and easily negotiated. Swiss International Air Lines (tel. 877/359-7947 from the U.S.) serves Geneva more frequently than any other airline and offers the best local connections, connecting Geneva with Lugano, Zurich, and Bern, plus flying in from several European capitals. Other international airlines flying into Geneva include Air France (tel. 800/237-2747 from the U.S.), with 10 flights daily from Paris; and British Airways (tel. 800/217-9297), with 14 daily flights from London.

To get into the center of Geneva, there's a train station linked to the air terminal with trains leaving about every 8 to 20 minutes from 5:25am to 12:25am for the 7-minute trip; the one-way fare is 10F ($8.20/£4.25) in first class and 7F ($5.75/£3) in second class. A taxi into town will cost between 30F and 40F ($25-$33/£13-£17), or you can take bus no. 10 for 12F ($9.85/£5.10).

By Train -- Geneva's CFF (Chemins de Fer Fédéraux) train station in the town center is Gare Cornavin, place Cornavin (tel. 0900/300-300 for ticket information). A small tourist office branch is at the train station.

Note: When the Lausanne-Geneva railroad line was extended to Cointrin Airport, a second "main" railroad station was built here with both long-distance and intercity trains. To avoid having to make the trip back to the center from the airport, be sure you get off the train at the Cornavin station.

By Car -- From Lausanne, head southwest on N1 to the very end of southwestern Switzerland.

By Lake Steamer -- There are frequent daily arrivals by Swiss lake steamer year-round from Montreux, Vevey, and Lausanne (you can use your Eurailpass for the trip). If you're staying in the Left Bank (Old Town), get off at the Jardin Anglais stop in Geneva; Mont Blanc and Pâquis are the two Right Bank stops. For more information, call tel. 0848/811-848 or visit the CGN website.

Visitor Information

Geneva's tourist office, the Office du Tourisme de Genève, is located at 18, rue du Mont-Blanc (tel. 022/909-70-00), and is open daily year-round from 9am to 6pm. The staff provides information about the city, and can also arrange hotel reservations both in Geneva and throughout Switzerland, and refer you to other establishments specializing in car and motorcycle rentals and excursion bookings. They can also give you details about audio-guided visits to the Old Town.

City Layout

Geneva is a perfect city to explore on foot. It's divided by Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) and the Rhône River into two sections: the Right Bank and the Left Bank. In addition to taking our walking tour of the highlights, you may rent an audio-guided tour in English from the tourist office for 10F ($8.20/£4.25). This tour covers more than two dozen highlights in the Old Town, and comes complete with cassette, player, and map. Its estimated duration is 2 hours. A 50F ($41/£21) deposit is collected prior to your receipt of a cassette player.

Rive Gauche (Left, or South Bank) -- This compact and colorful area is the oldest section of the city. Here you'll find Old Town, some major shopping streets, the famous Flower Clock, the university, and several important museums.

Grand-Rue is the well-preserved main street of Old Town. It's flanked by many houses dating from the 15th and 18th centuries. The street winds uphill from the ponts de l'Ile; at place Bel-Air it becomes rue de la Cité, then Grand-Rue, and finally rue de l'Hôtel-de-Ville. (Rousseau was born in a simple house at no. 40 Grand-Rue). Eventually it reaches place du Bourg-de-Four -- one of the most historic squares of Geneva. South of this street is promenade des Bastions, a greenbelt area overlooking the Arve, with a monument to the Reformation. Directly to the west, in the northern corner of promenade des Bastions, is place Neuve, which is the finest square in Geneva.

From place Neuve, you can take rue de la Corraterie, which was once surrounded by the city wall, to the Rhône and the ponts de l'Ile. On this bridge is the Tour-de-l'Ile, what's left of the 13th-century bishops' castle.

On the shore of Lake Geneva is the Jardin Anglais (English Garden) with its Flower Clock and, farther out, the Parc La Grange and the nearby Parc des Eaux-Vives.

Rive Droite (Right, or North Bank) -- You can cross to the other side of the Rhône on any of several bridges, including pont du Mont-Blanc, pont de la Machine, pont des Bergues, and ponts de l'Ile. The Right Bank is home to Gare Cornavin, the major international organizations, and several attractive parks.

Place St-Gervais is in the St-Gervais district; this has been the area for jewelers and watchmakers since the 18th century.

Along the northern shore of Lake Geneva is quai du Président-Wilson, named for the U.S. president who helped found the League of Nations.

The Right Bank is surrounded by parks, from the tree-shaded promenades along the Rhône to the Parc de la Perle du Lac, Parc Barton, and on the city outskirts, Parc Mon-Repos.

Finding an Address -- In a system developed during the Middle Ages, all Swiss cities begin their street-numbering system with the lowest numbers closest to the old center of town. The numbers increase the farther out from Old Town you go. Even numbers are on one side of a street; odd numbers are on the other side.

Maps -- The tourist office presents visitors with a free detailed and easy-to-follow map of Geneva. That same map is available from most of the city's hotels as well.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Rues Basses -- Rues Basses (translated either as "low streets" or figuratively as "lower town") is found between Old Town and the south bank of the Rhône. It's the major commercial and shopping district of Geneva. Its major street is rue du Rhône, although rue de la Confédération and rue du Marché are also important arteries.

Old Town (Vieille Ville) -- At an altitude of 398m (1,305 ft.), Old Town is the most history-rich section of Geneva. This is Left Bank Geneva, with its narrow streets, flower-bedecked fountains, and architectural blends of Gothic, Renaissance, and 18th-century features. The twin towers of the Cathedral of St. Pierre dominate Old Town, whose geographical and spiritual center is place du Bourg-de-Four.

The Promenades of Geneva -- These streets almost constitute a "neighborhood" in themselves. This section of quays along both Lake Geneva and the Rhône is best experienced by walking. One of the most scenic walks is from the Parc des Eaux-Vives on the Left Bank to the Parc de Mon-Repos on the Right Bank. Along the way is a clear view of Geneva's most famous and visible monument, the Jet d'Eau. Set a few inches above the surface of the lake, this fountain spurts a plume of shimmering water that rises to heights, depending on the wind on the day it's being measured, of between 140 and 145 meters (459 to 476 feet) tall. Except for a two-week maintenance regime conducted every midwinter, Jet d'Eau operates year-round, except when winds blow hard down from the Alps, during which period it's shut off to avoid drenching the passersby on the nearby quais.

Carouge -- Carouge, a suburb of Geneva, is a historic European town. It dates from the 18th century, when it was built by the king of Sardinia to rival Geneva. Architects from Turin supplied the Piedmontese charm. At the Congress of Vienna, in 1815, Carouge was annexed to the canton of Geneva. Carouge was once the playground of smugglers and gold washers who panned for the precious metal in the Arve. The Genevese themselves -- at least those who wanted to escape from the puritanical city -- came here in search of decadence.

Switzerland considers Carouge a national landmark because of its architecture. It can be reached from Geneva by tram no. 12 or 13 from the center. Begin your exploration in the Market Square, with its old fountain, plane trees, and markets. A Roman stone was imbedded in the Church of the Holy Cross. As you walk around, you'll pass the court of the count of Veyrier's palace, dating from 1783; place du Temple, with a fountain from 1857; and a Louis XVI carved door at 18, rue St-Victor.

Getting Around

Walking, of course, is the cheapest, most practical form of transportation in Geneva. It's also the most advantageous from a tourist's point of view. Tree-shaded promenades line the edges of the lake, and you can browse many chic shops walking at a moderate pace along streets that include rue du Rhône. Savor the measured tempo of life here that makes this city particularly alluring to the foreign visitor.

Nevertheless, if speed is the object, you may avail yourself of the public transportation system, which is reasonably priced and as dependable as a Swiss watch.

By Public Transportation -- Most of Geneva's public tram and bus lines begin either at the very central place Cornavin in front of the main railroad station, or, to a lesser extent, on the opposite bank of the river, at the Place du Bel Air. Local buses and trams operate daily from 5am to midnight, and you can purchase a ticket from a vending machine before you board. Instructions are also given in English. Transport Publics Genevois (tel. 0900/022-021), next to the tourist office in Gare Cornavin, offers free maps of local bus routings. Trips that stay within zone 10, enveloping most of Geneva, cost 3F ($2.45/£1.25), and unlimited use of all zones costs 10F ($8.20/£4.25) for 1 day.

By Taxi -- The meter on whatever cab you take in Geneva will automatically begin calculating your fare at 7F ($5.75/£3), and then add between 2.90F ($2.40/£1.25) and 3.50F ($2.85/£1.50) for every kilometer you travel, depending on the time of day or night. The fare from the airport to the center of town ranges from 30F to 40F ($25-$33/£13-£17). No tipping is required, but extra baggage may cost 1F (80¢/40p). To call for a taxi, call tel. 022/331-41-33 or 022/320-20-20.

By Car -- Driving is not recommended; parking is difficult and the many one-way streets make navigation complicated. However, should you wish to rent a car and tour Lake Geneva, you'll find many car-rental companies represented in the arrivals hall of the airport and in the center of the city. Major car-rental companies in Geneva include Avis, 44, rue de Lausanne (tel. 022/731-90-00, or at the airport 022/929-03-30); Budget, at the airport (tel. 022/717-86-75); Hertz, at the airport (tel. 022/717-80-80); and Europcar, 37 rue de Lausanne (tel. 022/909-69-90). If you absolutely insist on driving a car, and if your hotel doesn't offer parking facilities and valet parking, the best bet for parking within the city limits tends to be within any of the many underground parking garages, whose presence is indicated with large blue-and-white signs designated with a letter "P." Rates for underground parking average between 1.50F and 2F ($1.20-$1.65/60p-85p) per hour.

By Bike -- Touring the city by bicycle isn't particularly practical because of the steep cobblestone streets, speeding cars, and general congestion. However, you might want to consider renting a bike for touring the countryside around Geneva. The major rental outlet is at the baggage desk at Gare Cornavin (tel. 022/791-02-50), where city bikes cost 32F ($26/£14). Another major outlet, charging from 15F to 35F ($12-$29/£6.25-£15) per day, depending on the degree of sophistication of the bicycle, is Genève Roule, 17, place Montbrillant (tel. 022/740-13-43).