Skiing is big in Sapporo, site of the 1972 Winter Olympics and easily accessible by plane from many cities in Japan -- there are slopes within city limits and more than a dozen skiing areas less than 2 hours away, most open from early December to late April. On the west edge of town are Okurayama Jump Hill and Miyanomori Jump Hill, both sites of the 1972 Winter Olympics. Here, too, is the Sapporo Bankei Ski Area, just 20 minutes from downtown Sapporo and popular for after-work skiing. You can reach them by subway to Maruyama Koen Station and then by bus.

Farther afield, the Teine Highland and Olympia Ski areas (tel. 011/681-3191) are about an hour's bus ride from Sapporo Station. This was the site of the alpine, bobsled, and toboggan events for the Olympics. A new lift joins the two areas, creating Hokkaido's longest run (6km/3 3/4 miles). A 4-hour, 6-hour, or 8-hour lift pass costs ¥3,500 ($33), ¥3,980 ($38), or ¥4,450 ($42) respectively; ski-rental equipment is available from ¥4,410 ($42) in the day and ¥2,940 ($28) at night. Snowboarding gear costs ¥3,780 ($36) per day. Keep in mind that gear sizes are generally smaller than in the West (ski boots up to 30cm, size 12 in U.S., and snowboard boots up to 28.5cm, size 10 1/2 in U.S.).

Niseko, a 3-hour bus ride west of Sapporo, is considered by our skiing friends as the best ski resort in Hokkaido. Three skiing regions, joined by lifts and shuttle buses that provide easy exploration of the different areas, offer variety for skiers of all levels. A day pass here costs ¥4,800 ($46), with rental prices comparable to those at Teine. To get there, reserve a seat with Chuo (tel. 011/231-0500) or Dohnan (tel. 011/865-5511) bus company; both go to Niseko from either Chitose Airport or Sapporo Station and cost ¥3,850 ($37) round-trip. For more information on skiing around Sapporo, stop by the Sapporo tourist office or go to the Snow Japan website.