Set between the granite peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the subtler volcanic Jemez Mountains, and with the Rio Grande flowing through, the Santa Fe area offers outdoor enthusiasts many opportunities to play. This is the land of high desert, where temperatures vary with the elevation, allowing for a full range of activities throughout the year.

Ballooning

New Mexico is renowned for its spectacular Balloon Fiesta, which takes place annually in Albuquerque. If you want to take a ride, you'll probably have to go to Albuquerque or Taos, but you can book your trip in Santa Fe through Santa Fe Detours, 54 1/2 E. San Francisco St. (tour desk for summer, 107 Washington Ave.; tel. 800/338-6877 or 505/983-6565). Flights take place early in the day. Rates begin at around $175 a flight. If you have your heart set on a balloon flight, I suggest that you reserve a time early in your trip because flights are sometimes canceled due to bad weather. That way, if you have to reschedule, you'll have enough time to do so.

Bird-Watching

Bird-watchers flock to the Randall Davey Audubon Center, 1800 Upper Canyon Rd (tel. 505/983-4609), to see more than 100 species of birds and many other animals. For guided bird-watching tours all over the region, contact Wings West at tel. 800/583-6928. Bill West guides half-day tours to local spots such as the Santa Fe Mountains and Cochiti Lake ($95 for 1-2 people) and full-day ones farther afield ($175 for 1-2 people).

Fishing

In the lakes and waterways around Santa Fe, anglers typically catch trout (there are five varieties in the area). Other local fish include bass, perch, and kokanee salmon. The most popular fishing holes are Cochiti and Abiquiu lakes as well as the Rio Chama, Pecos River, and the Rio Grande. A world-renowned fly-fishing destination, the San Juan River, near Farmington, is worth a visit and can make for an exciting 2-day trip in combination with a tour around Chaco Culture National Historic Park. Check with the New Mexico Game and Fish Department (tel. 505/476-8000) for information (including maps of area waters), licenses, and fishing proclamations. High Desert Angler, 435 S. Guadalupe St. (tel. 505/988-7688), specializes in fly-fishing gear and guide services.

Golf

There are three courses in the Santa Fe area: the 18-hole Santa Fe Country Club, on Airport Road (tel. 505/471-2626); the often-praised 18-hole Cochiti Lake Golf Course, 5200 Cochiti Hwy., Cochiti Lake, about 35 miles southwest of Santa Fe via I-25 and NM 16 and 22 (tel. 505/465-2239); and Santa Fe's newest 18-hole course, Marty Sanchez Links de Santa Fe, 205 Caja del Rio (tel. 505/955-4400). Both the Santa Fe Country Club and the Marty Sanchez Links offer driving ranges as well. North of Santa Fe on Pojoaque Pueblo land, the Towa Golf Resort (Cities of Gold Casino Resort, U.S. 285/84, tel. 877/465-3489 or 505/455-9000), offers 27 holes designed by Hale Irwin and William Phillips, set with views of the Jemez and Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

Horseback Riding

Trips ranging in length from a few hours to overnight can be arranged by Santa Fe Detours, 54 1/2 E. San Francisco St. (summer tour desk, 107 Washington Ave.; tel. 800/338-6877 or 505/983-6565). You'll ride with "experienced wranglers" and they can even arrange a trip that includes a cookout or brunch. Rides are also major activities at The Bishop's Lodge. The Broken Saddle Riding Company (tel. 505/424-7774) offers rides through the stunning Galisteo Basin south of Santa Fe.

Hunting

Elk and mule deer are taken by hunters in the Pecos Wilderness and Jemez Mountains, as are occasional black bears and bighorn sheep. Wild turkeys and grouse are frequently bagged in the uplands, geese and ducks at lower elevations. Check with the New Mexico Game and Fish Department (tel. 505/476-8000) for information and licenses.

River Rafting & Kayaking

Although Taos is the real rafting center of New Mexico, several companies serve Santa Fe during the April-to-October white-water season. They include New Wave Rafting, 70 County Rd. 84B, Santa Fe, NM 87506 (tel. 800/984-1444 or 505/984-1444), and Santa Fe Rafting Co., 1000 Cerrillos Rd., Santa Fe, NM 87505 (tel. 888/988-4914 or 505/988-4914). You can expect the cost of a full-day trip to range from about $90 to $125 before tax and the 3% federal land use fee. The day of the week (weekdays are less expensive) and group size may also affect the price.

Running

Despite its elevation, Santa Fe is popular with runners and hosts numerous competitions, including the annual Old Santa Fe Trail Run on Labor Day. Each Wednesday, Santa Fe runners gather at 6pm at the plaza and set out on foot for runs in the surrounding area. This is a great opportunity for travelers to find their way and to meet some locals. Santa Fe Striders sponsors various runs during the year.

Swimming

There's a public pool at the Fort Marcy Complex (tel. 505/955-2500) on Camino Santiago, off Bishop's Lodge Road. Admission is $1.85 for adults, $1.50 for ages 13 to 18, 75¢ for ages 8 to 12, 30¢ for children 7 and under, and 75¢ for seniors.

Tennis

Santa Fe has 44 public tennis courts and 4 major private facilities. The City Recreation Department (tel. 505/955-2100) can help you locate indoor, outdoor, and lighted public courts.