After all this maritime history, you, too, can head for the water if the day is fair. The best beach, Langeby, lies 7km (4 1/4 miles) from the center, and buses from Sandefjord go there hourly. You'll find dozens of other beaches along the 146km (91-mile) coastline. Our favorite public beach -- arm yourself with a map from the tourist office -- is at Søllokka, reached along RV 303 by following the directions north to Tønsberg. We also like Granholmen, reached along RV 303 following the directions south to Larvik, the latter the hometown of Thor Heyerdahl, of Kon-Tiki fame.

The area is a popular site for scuba divers. The best outfitter is Neptun Dykkersenter, Hegnasletta 13 (tel. 33-46-14-90), which will rent all the equipment needed to qualified divers. There is no regular place to rent boats but you might inquire here about rentals, or else check with the tourist office to see what might be available if you'd like to go boating. Outdoor activities are a casual thing at Sandefjord, a sort of do-it-yourself operation that changes from season to season.